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[caption id="attachment_2611" align="alignnone" width="426" caption="Sterling Silver Water Castings"]Sterling Silver Water Castings[/caption]

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[caption id="attachment_2612" align="alignnone" width="427" caption="Semi-Melted Plastic"]Semi-Melted Plastic[/caption]

What to do with water castings. I think I'm going to drill holes in mine and use them as beads to dangle from earrings and pendants, order Ativan online overnight delivery no prescription. Buy Ativan Without Prescription, I'd like to play with this technique more, but I need a crucible for melting the metal in order to get larger castings, so I'm not sure when it will happen. Online buying Ativan, I did try a little argentium silver, and got very different results using essentially the exact same technique:

[caption id="attachment_2617" align="alignnone" width="427" caption="Argentium Sterling Silver Water Castings"]Argentium Sterling Silver Water Castings[/caption]

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Jewelry 101: Tips for Drilling Metal

For drilling soft metals like silver and copper, you can use hardened steel drill bits that are sold at hardware stores, if you can find a small enough size. Diamond coated bits are good if you are drilling something harder, such as glass or a harder metal. I get diamond bits from jewelry supply companies like Frei and Borel (which is local for me) or Rio Grande by mail order. You can also use diamond bits to drill soft metals, but they tend to cost more than hardened steel bits. Drill bits last longer and work better if they are lubricated. My favorite way to lubricate while drilling is to have a small dish of water nearby and start with a drop of water on the spot I'm going to drill. I dip the bit in the water, and whenever it starts to dry up, I dip it again. This also helps prevent dust from getting into the air, so it makes the process safer, and it keeps the bit and the metal from overheating. I use a pointy object to make a little dimple in the metal right where I want to drill, which makes it a lot easier to get started.
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Make a Resin Bottle Cap Charm

Using bottle caps as bezels for resin is a great way to make jewelry without spending a lot of money on materials. If you are just starting to work with resin, I recommend using bottle caps for your practice pieces - they are free, and you probably have some lying around your house. Plus it's recycling! Here's what you will need:
  • two-part epoxy resin
  • clean, dry bottle caps
  • newspaper or plastic bags to cover your workspace
  • scissors
  • glue (I use mod podge)
  • paper
  • small found objects, bits of hardware, beads, glitter, or whatever else you hav that is small enough to fit inside the bottlecap
  • drill & small drill bit (1/16 inch or smaller) (optional)
  • water or other lube for drill (if using a drill)
  • wire (16, 18, or 20g is what I would use)
  • round nose pliers
  • flat nose pliers
  • wire cutters
  • safety gear, including good ventilation & a respirator so you don't breathe in the resin fumes
Now here's what you do:
  • Prepare your workspace: protect it with newspaper, or plastic such as plastic grocery bags.
  • If using an image for a background, cut the image out to fit in the bottle cap & glue it down. Let glue dry completely before moving on.[caption id="attachment_728" align="alignnone" width="400" caption="Bottle Cap Charms After Gluing"]Bottle Cap Charms After Gluing[/caption]
  • Arrange your objects, glitter, etc in the bottlecap
  • Mix the resin according to the manufacturer's instructions and use a small stirring stick such as a popsicle stick or wooden coffee stirrer to drip just enough resin into the bottle cap to completely cover your objects and/or collaged image. Be careful not to overfill the bottle cap because cleaning up spilled resin is really not fun - trust me.
  • Let the resin cure - this could take up to 72 hours - you may want to put something like an upside down pie pan over your pieces while they cure, so that they don't get dust stuck to the surface[caption id="attachment_730" align="alignnone" width="400" caption="Bottle Cap Charms with One Resin Layer"]Bottle Cap Charms with One Resin Layer[/caption]
  • If you are happy with the look of the piece, you are ready to drill or wrap it. If it looks like it needs more resin, you can pour a little more and let it cure again. I like to do two layers of resin so that I can place objects on top of the first layer, giving the piece a little more depth.
Once your final resin layer has cured, you are ready to make these into something. A few ideas:
  • Drill a hole near the top & insert a jump ring or bail to make a pendant or charm (tutorial coming soon!)
  • Wire wrap it to use as a pendant or charm (tutorial coming soon!)
  • Glue it to a ring finding, brooch finding, or magnet
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Resin Collages

My regular readers are probably familiar with my 3D resin pendants - but embedding objects in resin in only one of its many potential uses in jewelry making and other crafts. For example - it is a great medium for making collages, and because it stiffens and seals paper, creating a collage with resin is a great way to prepare paper for use in jewelry projects. Just think of all the things you can do with paper...write on it, paint on it, draw on it, print on it...plus you can use pages of old books, magazines, newspapers, photos...and don't even get me started on all the cool stuff available to papercrafters today like stamps, embossing powders, metallic inks... [caption id="attachment_528" align="alignnone" width="350" caption="Detail from Resin Collage featuring current events"]Detail from Resin Collage featuring current events[/caption] One very important thing to know about how resin affects paper: if you apply resin directly to paper, it tends to make the paper transparent. So if you have a piece of paper, such as from a magazine, that has text or images on both sides, you may want to seal it with glue or mod-podge before using it in a resin collage. (Or not, sometimes the transparent, double-sided effect is nice.) Also - because resin will seep through paper and fabric, you need to have a sheet of plastic underneath your collage to protect your work surface. I used a sheet protector, and when my collage was dry, it just peeled off. I'm sure you could use other kinds of plastic, but I happen to have some old sheet protectors lying around so I used what I had. I can't guarantee all types of plastic will work as well...so try this project at your own risk! [caption id="attachment_529" align="alignnone" width="350" caption="Resin Collage featuring current events"]Resin Collage featuring current events[/caption] For my collages, I tore articles out of a recent issue of the San Francisco Chronicle - politics, hurricane Gustav, and some sports clippings. I also used scraps of ribbon, and some tissue paper that had been used as wrapping for a baby gift I received. So the materials, other than the resin, are all recycled. The technique is pretty simple: mix your resin according to the manufacturer's directions. I used about 1/2 ounce of resin for my collage. I laid out a layer of paper on the sheet protector, and using a foam brush, coated it with resin (on both sides). Then I layered tissue and ribbon over the paper & covered that with resin, again using the foam brush. I made sure everything was coated well and sticking together. At one point, I peeled the collage off of the sheet protector and flipped it over so I could add stuff to the back. When I was satisfied with how it looked, I set it aside to cure. [caption id="attachment_530" align="alignnone" width="350" caption="Resin Collage featuring sports news clippings"]Resin Collage featuring sports news clippings[/caption] Resin safety tip: wear a respirator and work in a well-ventilated area. I worked next to an open door, with a fan blowing fumes away from me. Once my collage was completely cured (you can tell because it doesn't feel sticky) I peeled it off of the sheet protector. I noticed that I could have done a better job of getting rid of air bubbles while I was working, but it still looks pretty good - you can read the text in most places, and there are areas that are transparent with others that are more opaque. [caption id="attachment_531" align="alignnone" width="350" caption="Detail from resin collage featuring sports clippings"]Detail from resin collage featuring sports clippings[/caption] Resin tip: if the resin doesn't ever stop feeling tacky, unfortunately you probably mixed it incorrectly or got the ratio a bit off. It's important to be very precise when mixing resin, or it won't properly cure. If this happens, and you really want to save the piece, mix a new batch of resin & apply a coat over the piece, again allowing it to cure - 90% of the time, this has worked for me. Now that my collage is finished, I'm going to cut it up and use the pieces in a jewelry-scale project. With mica! Related ideas you could try:
  • plasticize a sheet of paper or fabric using the same technique - just don't layer anything with it
  • add pigments or glitter to the resin to add some color or sparkle to your collage
  • incorporate non-paper objects into your collage - resin sticks to most non-plastic, non-wet objects
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